Chitkul Magic and Office Mayhem: How We Made It Happen?
I can’t quite recall who first snuck Chitkul into my brain, but thanks to endless Instagram reels and vlogs, it slowly worked its way into my heart like a persistent earworm.
So naturally, I floated the idea to my school buddies, and before I even finished, they were all in. So, back in April, we marked our calendars and set 22nd to 28th September 2024 as the official “Let’s Go Have Some Fun” week.
We were a fantastic four: me (Gaurav Khattar), our very own Dr. Saab (Dr. Gaurav Arya), Gaurav Ahuja, and Pramanshu. Now, instead of squeezing ourselves into my trusty WagonR, this time we upgraded to Pramanshu’s Hyundai Creta—because hey, we are older by two years since the Chanshal Pass trip, and our backs deserve better!
The grand plan (original)?
21-Sep: Dr. Arya lands in Delhi (Gurgaon) from Bhopal, probably already dreaming of the hills.
22-Sep: Crack of dawn—or more like crack of night—2 a.m., we hit the road to Narkanda… Explore Narkanda attractions like Hatu Peak and Tani Jubbar Lake and crash there for the night.
23-Sep: Onwards to Chitkul! We will check-in, grab some drinks and relax
24-Sep: Day to roam around Chitkul like lost explorers, stay another night.
25-Sep: Pack up and head to Nako, take in the sights, stay the night.
26-Sep: Kalpa bound! Explore it, and, you guessed it—stay overnight.
27-Sep: Time to wrap up with a stop at Koti. One more night there.
28-Sep: Homeward bound, and Dr. Arya catches the last flight back to Bhopal, probably more tired than when he arrived!
The trouble…
As D-day crept closer, we went into full prep mode like we were heading on an expedition to Mount Everest. Checklists? Oh, we had plenty. We rechecked the travel plan a zillion times, stocked up on our essential “liquor quota” (because priorities come first), made sure our gadgets were charged and primed for epic clicks, and got Pramanshu’s Creta pampered with fresh servicing and alignment.
We booked our Narkanda hotel through Goibibo, opting to keep the rest of our accommodations flexible. After all, it was the off-season, and we fancied ourselves as spontaneous adventurers, ready to embrace the unknown—or at least, unbooked, keeping the itinerary as flexible as our willpower in front of a plate of momos.
Exactly one month before the trip, on 21st August, Dr. Arya casually dropped a bomb—he might have counselling at his medical college and asked if we could push the trip back by a week (29th September to 5th October). Pramanshu was chill about it, and I was fine too, but it meant I’d be slogging through extra hours to finish my review from the 23rd to the 27th of September. At first, Gaurav Ahuja was the reluctant one, hesitating to ask his boss for the date switch. But after a bit of deliberation, he pulled it off! However, there was a catch—his wedding anniversary was on 4th October, and being home for that was non-negotiable. So, like true problem solvers, we decided to trim the trip by a day, scratch Nako off the map, and ensure Ahuja was back in time for his anniversary.
The revamped Plan A – Himachal
So, the revamped plan looked something like this:
28-Sep: Dr. Arya lands in Delhi (Gurgaon) from Bhopal, fresh off the plane and ready to roll.
29-Sep: At the ungodly hour of 2 a.m., we hit the road for Narkanda. Plan? Explore the place and then stay there for the night.
30-Sep: Onward to Chitkul! Where the Wi-Fi’s weak, but the views are strong. Overnight stay at Chitkul.
01-Oct: More Chitkul exploring! Stay for another night at Chitkul.
02-Oct: Off to Kalpa, explore local attractions, and Stay the night.
03-Oct: Destination Koti! One last night in the hills, embracing all the good vibes.
04-Oct: Back home by 5 p.m., just in time for Dr. Arya to catch his flight back to Bhopal—because the trip’s over, but life’s about to get mundane again!
New Plan B – Uttarakhand
With the revised plan locked in, everything seemed smooth… or so we thought! Enter the plot twist: after Narkanda, on the way to Chitkul, a massive landslide decided to grace us with its presence at Nigul Sari in Himachal. Traffic? Rerouted via Spiti, adding a casual 500 km of mountain driving—roughly 14 extra hours. Ouch. This was soul-crushing. We didn’t have time for a Spiti detour, and our Narkanda booking was already set (and had already been rescheduled once, mind you).
With no other option, we had to whip up a Plan B. Our Plan B was as bizarre as the chaos that led us to it!
So, Plan B (Uttarakhand)—our backup, aka “The Universe Had Other Plans” itinerary—shaped up like this:
28-Sep: Gaurav Arya arrives in Delhi (Gurgaon) from Bhopal
29-Sep (early morning, by 2 am): We start for Narkanda and explore Narkanda attractions – stay at Narkanda
30-Sep: Chitkul out, Tehri Lake in! – stay at Tehri
01-Oct: Off to Tungnath in Uttarakhand– stay at Chopta
02-Oct: Time for the Tungnath and Chandrashila trek! – stay at Chopta
03-Oct: Next stop: Lansdowne. One last peaceful night in the hills before reality kicks back in.
04-Oct: Back home by 5 p.m., and Dr. Arya catches his flight to Bhopal, probably dreaming of the next “adventure” (without landslides, hopefully).
Who in their right mind heads to Himachal just to make use of a hotel booking and then bounces over to Uttarakhand? Well, apparently, we do! Our whacky minds were in overdrive, cooking up some truly wild plans. But let’s be honest, all we really wanted was a break from the monotony—an escape to anywhere on hills but the everyday grind. As long as we were cruising towards the mountains, no one cared about how ridiculous our itinerary got.
The crazier, the better!
Plan A (Himachal), Plan B (Uttarakhand), and Plan ‘C’halo
With Plan A, Plan B, frequent date changes, and landslide drama all sorted out, we finally let out a collective sigh of relief. Our vacation was just a week away, and each of us was knee-deep in office chaos, tackling last-minute issues like superheroes on a mission to save our travel plans. Then one fateful afternoon, Dr. Arya called me. The moment I saw his name flashing on my cell phone, I knew something was messed up.
My sixth sense didn’t fail me. He informed me that his counseling dates had shifted again, this time by a whole week! So, could we please revert to our original plan (22nd to 28th Sep 2024)? Because who doesn’t love a good plot twist before a vacation?
For a moment, I just went into complete freeze mode. I had meticulously planned my reviews, Gaurav Ahuja had just sweet-talked his boss into adjusting his vacation plans, and Pramanshu had played his own office date juggling act. And now, this bombshell?
After soothing my nerves, I suggested Dr. Arya check with his dean to see if someone else could hold down the fort at his institute, while he can be available over call and video conference.
Fortunately, his dean agreed, the plan was still ON, and our mountain escape was back in business.
Hills at Dawn: The Long-Awaited Ascent Begins (Day 1)
As we swung by to pick up Gaurav Ahuja from his apartment, the clock hit 2:00 a.m. The streets were eerily quiet—just a few wandering souls, white cabs creeping along, and the occasional bark from some street dog. But the moment we sped onto NH-8, bam! Chaos came roaring back like it had been waiting for us. Trucks, buses, cars, and even wrong-side bikers made sure our chill drive was rudely interrupted. Slowly, by 03.00 hrs, we found ourselves on the northern outskirts of Delhi, near Alipur, finally ready to merge onto the Delhi-Chandigarh highway. The highway adventure was officially on!
Our Creta hit triple digits on the speedometer, and the cool breeze worked its magic—sending Ahuja off to slumber in no time. Meanwhile, the rest of us stayed awake, chatting about everything under the sun (or moon, in this case)—work, vacations, politics, and whatever else came to mind. By the time we reached Murthal, our hunger pangs returned despite it being around 04.00 hrs. Our first stop was the legendary Aamrik Sukhdev. I expected an empty joint at that hour, but to my shock, it was buzzing with life! Crowd of hungry souls were feasting like it was lunchtime! Forget the simple paratha and chai—people were diving into full-on thalis at this graveyard hour. Clearly, Sukhdev never sleeps!
By 8:00 a.m., the hills welcomed us with open arms, and the winding roads began. We made our second pit stop at Savoy Greens, Jabli, near Parwanoo, where we devoured some mouthwatering aloo-puri and washed it down with steaming hot masala chai. We hit the road again, vowing not to stop until Shimla. But, as it turns out, our resolve was only as strong as our caffeine cravings. The next thing we knew, we pulled over at a cozy little spot near Solan, sipping on caffeine and laughing at our so-called ‘marathon drive.’
We reached Shimla around 11:30 a.m., only to find that the once-glorious British summer capital had turned into a dusty, chaotic town packed with endless traffic jams. We crawled through the mess, inching our way towards Kufri. Thankfully, after Kufri, the traffic cleared up, and our Creta finally stretched its legs. But despite that, we still lost more than an hour navigating Shimla’s grumpy streets!
After Kufri, we zipped through Fagu and Theog, enjoying the sight of those tempting apple farms, and finally rolled into Narkanda by 3:00 p.m. But instead of checking into our hotel, we decided to refuel with lunch first and then head straight to Hatu Peak, a place that I had tried to reach twice before but failed. This time, I got lucky. Perched at a lofty 11,152 feet above sea level, Hatu Peak delivered jaw-dropping views—lush green valleys and towering mountains. The next stop was Tani Jubbar Lake located nearby, another quiet place with a placid lake.
Finally, we checked into our Hotel Snowflake by 18.30 hrs, settled in, and ordered dinner. Tomorrow promised to be even more exhausting, with a full day of navigating those twisty, turny mountain roads. With excitement twinkling in our eyes, we drifted off to sleep, dreaming of more adventures to come!
Chitkul: Bumpy Roads, Beautiful Views, and Freshest Air! (Day-2)
The moment we woke up, we knew we were running late. The clock read 7:00 a.m., and leaving by 8:00 seemed like a distant dream. We scrambled to pack, skipped breakfast, and rushed through checkout, but still ended up leaving about 30 minutes behind schedule. On the road, we made a pit stop at a tiny dhaba near Kumarsain, where we devoured the most delicious paratha-chai combo of the entire trip—totally worth the delay! With our hunger pangs satiated, we drove off and didn’t stop for another two hours, finally arriving at HPTDC Hotel Satluj in Rampur Bushahr, right on the banks of the mighty Satluj river.
The view from the Café was great, and the cold coffee was satiating. The next stop was suggested by Dr. Arya, which was hardly a 2-minute drive from Café – Padam Singh Palace, built more than a century ago by Raja Padam Singh. This grand old beauty was the last winter capital of the Bushahr dynasty and was located bang on the old Hindustan Tibet trading route. After a quick photo session against this exquisite architectural backdrop, we sped off towards Chitkul. Time read around 13.00 hrs, and our destination was still around 5 hours away.
Just like our Chanshal Pass escapade, disaster decided to join us the moment I took the wheel of the Creta. With every spin of the tires, I felt a rhythmic bump and thump on the driver’s side, definitely not the kind of rhythm we were looking for! We quickly pulled over, and guess what? A pesky nail had made itself at home in our tire! Lucky for us, a repair shop was just a stone’s throw away, so we got that little drama sorted out in no time and got back on the road before the trip turned into a flat tire saga!
After an hour on the highway, we rolled into Nigulsari, ground zero of last week’s mega landslide. The road was still closed, but the Indian army had arranged a makeshift muddy detour, which allowed only one side of the traffic to crawl through at a time. After a solid hour of bonding with the scenery (and our patience), we finally crawled through to the other side. Once we did, it was like someone flipped a switch: the views transformed dramatically, with the Sutlej river snaking through deep gorges while we hugged the edge of rock-cut, blink-and-you-miss-it narrow roads. Adventure mode: officially activated!
After soaking in the tranquil vibes of the Sutlej and Baspa rivers’ confluence at Karcham, we hit the not-so-glorious road to Chitkul. It was only about 40 km away, but with all the bumps and grinds, we were in for a two-hour rollercoaster! As we chugged along the Baspa, we dodged broken, dusty roads, local Mahindra pickup trucks that seemed to think they owned the place, and a parade of adventurous bikers—all while soaking in panoramic views that made us feel like we were in a postcard.
By the time we reached Chitkul (at 11,320 ft elevation), dusk had settled in, and we found ourselves in this quaint little town, the last stop before the China border, with an astonishing Air Quality Index (AQI) of 19. Coming from Delhi’s smog soup, this was a breath of fresh air—literally! I thought the huffing and puffing of my lungs were from the clean, crisp air, but nope, it turned out they were just struggling with the high altitude!
We checked out Zostel, but due to its shared washrooms, we settled into Samaa Resorts, which had mountain-view rooms, free parking, working water geysers, a bonfire, a restaurant, and a small garden. After drinks and dinner, we clicked a few pics under the stars, and finally, we dozed off.
Civilization? What’s That? Our Airtel Signal Took a vacation too! (Day-3)
This day was reserved for local sightseeing and relaxing. We deserved a relaxing break after being practically on the road for a couple of days. We rolled out of bed and took a leisurely stroll along the winding lane that led us to the banks of the Baspa River. It didn’t take long for our gadgets to come out, each of us trying to snap the perfect sunrise pic. The cameras went wild—some shots were Instagram-worthy, while others… well, let’s just say they would remain in the digital abyss! Still, our inner photographers were pleased, and quickly we had a frugal breakfast by the flowing river and headed back to the hotel.
After getting ready, we drove along the only road in the town towards the China border. Only three km on the road, we reached an army barricade beyond which civilians weren’t permitted. Though we were disappointed, the Baspa River flowing nearby offered some solace.
We parked the car along the road and navigated through the rocky terrain to reach the river bank. The scene of the gushing river cutting through the rocks, making a mesmerizing sound, was captivating. The sun was blazing, and we could practically feel our skin sizzling! We lingered there for over an hour before making our way back to Chitkul.
Since it was lunchtime, we reached a dhaba proudly named “Hindustan ka Aakhiri Dhaba.” The food was simple yet delicious. After our tummy was full, we headed back to our hotel, rested, and played cards. Soon, as the sun dipped below the horizon, the temperature plummeted to a chilly 2°C. With no Airtel signal (only Jio and BSNL were brave enough to venture this far), we were officially cut off from civilization. So, we packed up and surrendered to sleep, dreaming of warmer weather and a better cell reception!
Kalpa’s Grand Finale: Suite Dream and Suicide Point (Day-4)
We got up early before the sun peeped out behind the mountains and got ready. The ubiquitous paratha was served for breakfast, which was washed down with two cups of tea. With bellies full and wallets lighter after settling the bill, we hit the road once again, this time bound for Kalpa, the gateway to the majestic Kinnar Kailash.
Sharp at 08.00 hrs, our Creta crept out of the hotel parking. For the next two hours, we maneuvered dexterously on the narrow, broken & bumpy Chitkul-Karcham road. Once the main highway was reached, mortal emotions of hunger and the Airtel signal brought us back to civilization. After another round of parathas, bread omelette, and chai, we zoomed off toward Reckong Peo and Kalpa,
On the way, we stopped for an impromptu photoshoot at Shongtong Bridge — a jaw-dropping suspension bridge in the heart of Kinnaur district, Himachal Pradesh. Perched a cool 9,000 feet above sea level, this engineering marvel is one of the highest bridges in Asia! The bridge spans across the Satluj River and connects the villages of Shongtong and Chuling. Naturally, we had to click a few shots to prove we were there, standing at the edge of the world… or at least it felt that way!
Finally, we reached Kalpa by 13.00 hrs. Since the hotel was not booked, we tried a few stay options and finally settled at Kalpa Inn, next to the Grand Shamba-La. Jackpot! It was a sweet suite with two massive rooms and a stunning view of the Kinnar Kailash. The owner and caretaker were nice people who took good care of us and prepared mouthwatering homely food.
After a quick round of teen-patti, we again left to explore Kalpa and its most famous Suicide point at Roghi. In earlier days, this spot was unfenced, but after it became an Instagram favorite, the local authorities put up an “I love Kinnaur” sign and a fence for safety. We grabbed some delicious Kinnauri apples on the way back, and by the time we hit the hotel, it was pitch dark. Time read 19.00 hrs.
After a cozy dinner and another card game session, we crashed into bed, fully aware that tomorrow would mark the start of our long drive back to Gurgaon. The adventure was winding down!
The Dawn to Dusk 19-Hour Drive: From Kalpa to Gurgaon (Day-5)
The plan was simple: drive for 8 hours, reach Koti or Chail, and stay there for the night.
By 07:00 hrs, we hit the road from Kalpa, being fully aware we’d need extra time at Nigulsari due to the infamous landslide. After refueling, we ditched the main highway for a “scenic” detour toward Karcham. Sure, the views were better, but the road? Broken, dusty, and constantly threatening us with falling rocks! But fortune favors the brave, right? We rolled into Karcham on time, with no disasters in sight—feeling pretty smug about our bold detour!
By the time we rolled past Nigulsari, it was almost 09:00 am, and with thin traffic, we zoomed through towns like we were in a racing game. By the time we reached Suru, it was nearly 11:30 am, and we decided to treat ourselves to a classic paratha-chai breakfast at Sharma Bhojanalaya.
As I devoured my breakfast, a brilliant (or stupid) idea struck me: We had another 5-hour drive ahead to reach Koti, which meant we’d roll in after dark and miss all the local attractions. Plus, we had to leave at the crack of dawn the next day to ensure Ahuja made it home for his anniversary and Arya caught his flight to Bhopal. So, why not drive today, all the way to Gurgaon instead? That way, we’d be home past midnight, get a whole day tomorrow, and save a few bucks on hotels!
I tossed this genius plan into the mix and given the adventure junkies we are, it passed with a unanimous 4-0 vote! We’d save money on lodging and instead, can treat ourselves to a feast on the Chandigarh-Delhi highway. Road trip, here we come!
So, with our new game plan in full swing, we ditched the turn to Koti and opted for the Shimla route instead. When we waved goodbye to Shimla, it was already 17:00 hrs. We figured we’d stop for a bite now and only grab dinner if we absolutely had to. So, we pulled into ‘The Great Urban Dhaba’ at Kachi Ghatti, just outside of Shimla. The food was a culinary revelation! After four days of parathas, dal, roti, and chai, we finally indulged in some actual vegetables, noodles, and even a sweet treat that made us feel like we were almost home.
By the time we started for the Gurgaon drive, dusk had set in, and we were still left with almost 8-9 hrs of drive. With our headlights slicing through the darkness and Punjabi beats pumping in the background, we were four happy souls reminiscing about our Chitkul escapades, cruising along the Chandigarh-Delhi highway like it was our own backyard joyride. Around 22:00 hrs, we decided to make our final pit stop at Sethi Dhaba, just before Kurukshetra. Since we had a late lunch, we didn’t bother with a full meal. Instead, some of us indulged in kulfi, while others opted for a steaming cup of chai.
The final stretch of our drive felt like that dreaded last exam you know you bombed—exhausting and filled with mixed emotions. Sure, we were thrilled to be heading home, but our hearts were still stuck with the breathtaking beauty of Chitkul.
Home, sweet home!
By the time we reached Gurgaon at Ahuja’s place, it was almost 02.00 hrs. Bhai reached home at least 16 hours early on his anniversary and gained anniversary brownie points (if not a real brownie). And Dr. Saab? He was grinning ear to ear, relieved he would not have to catch his flight running-chasing after a long highway drive. In the end, we were just glad to be back in Gurgaon, in one piece and on time, after a 19-hour marathon drive straight from Kalpa.
Overall, it was a whirlwind adventure. We drove close to 1500 km in five days, mostly on hills, on broken, narrow, bumpy, dust-ridden roads. Thanks to some serious cliff-hanging maneuvers, we not only improved our driving skills but also forged unforgettable memories with our pals over drinks, cards, food, and a whole lot of laughter.
Where next, guys?
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